Pennine Way Day 10

I sleep well and wake just before my alarm. I’d set it for 4am, an hour earlier than when I usually set it due to my covert location plus I wanted to get some decent miles in before the heat of the day struck. It’s still dark outside and I lay watching the lights twinkling below.

I’m packed and on the trail by 5am and it’s a tad too dark to hike so I have a light breakfast, brush my hair and teeth and down a painkiller.

Once done, it’s a little lighter and so I hike, hike and hike over gritty moorland and arrive at a line of flagstones. The geology is slowly changing to that of the Peak District. I pass another reservoir which is dry and a strong wind sails across it. A few people pass me and I arrive at a pub. Someone is camped in a large tent, not very covert at all. On I go and cross over the M62 where there is a mention of a snack wagon. Arriving at the next lay-by, there is a cafe but unfortunately it doesn’t open till 10am so on I go.

I hike on and I pause for a mouthful of my remaining water. The only water I’d found yesterday had been at Lower Withins where I had planned to take a break and re-hydrate by drinking a litre or so and then topping up my two water bottles. The midges had had other ideas though… I’d hiked on in hopes that another water source would appear to me but none did. I had crossed a few water sources today but it was that shiny, brown water that is stagnant and I wasn’t that desperate…yet…

I ascend more moorland and the dog walkers and day bikers are out in force today. All very grateful as I hope off trail to let them pass. You could tell it was a Sunday. Scanning my guidebook as I hike, I was sure I’d read about a 2nd snack wagon. I was in luck! There was a chance of another snack van at the head Wassenden reservoir and it urged me on. I began to fantasise about cold fizzy drinks and sweet snacks and preyed it was there and open. This thought urges me on and I cruise by day walkers, despite carrying a heavy pack. Reaching the road, I see a van tucked in at the end of the roadside parking. Cars and bikes line the road and I hot foot it over, ordering a coke, 2 bottles of water and some homemade gingercake. A Yorkshire flag waves merrily attached to the van run by two locals ladies and I settle down nearby. Close enough to listen in on their conversation with the local bikers but far enough away to observe my map in peace. I’d hiked 17 miles already, spurred on by my thoughts of food and drink.

For the next section it was six miles up and over this moor. The sun was well and truly out, blazing down on all of us. Troops of day walkers appear like ants in the distance and then emerge fully formed as we cross paths. It’s a slog and I swap between the flagstones and rocky footpaths. I reach the other side for 4pm and endure the long descent. It goes on and on and near the bottom I can hear a river flowing. Taking a side trail, I venture down and reach a beautiful oasis. A large section of flat grass sits beside the a natural pool which opens up beneath the shade of the petite trees. Even though it was early I decide to stop here for the day. I had reached Torside and only had 15 miles to do tomorrow.

Downing my pack, I strip off to my underwear and sit down in the pool. The cool water feels amazing and I give my feet and legs a good soak. I spend the rest of the day lounging in my tent, dozing, reading, resting and enjoying my final eve on the trail.